How to Apply Touch Up Paint Using the Spray Can
Watch: How to Use a Spray Can Like a Pro
Collin shows how to touch up a large area of unpainted surface and paint scratches with a spray can on his ranch truck:
Quick Steps for Spray Can Application (Basecoat/Clearcoat)
Note: If you ordered single stage paint, ignore Step 5 (clearcoat) as the clear is already mixed into the paint. You will polish the single stage paint directly.
- Clean the Area: Wash the area with soap and water or wax and grease remover.
- Scuff the Surface: Scuff the area well with wet and dry sandpaper (use 600 grit after initial cleanup/rust removal).
- Check Conditions: Ensure humidity is below 50% and temperature is around 70°F (do not exceed 80°F). Do not spray in direct sunlight.
- Spray Basecoat (Color): Apply even, wet coats of basecoat, overlapping each pass. Two wet coats should be sufficient, but some colors need more. Allow each coat to dry 20 minutes before recoating. You can wet sand the final coat with 1000 grit to remove imperfections. The basecoat must be dry to the touch before proceeding.
- Spray Clearcoat: Shake the clearcoat well (2 minutes). Spray the clearcoat beyond the basecoat area, out to a natural stopping point (like a panel edge). Two wet coats should be sufficient.
- Polish to Shine: Let the clearcoat dry for at least three days. Use rubbing compound (cutting creme) to smooth and shine the area. Without this step, the paint will not shine properly. Apply with a clean, soft cotton cloth (DO NOT use paper products or dirty fabrics).
- Test First: If this is your first time, try one small area from start to finish before repairing other areas.
- Waxing: Allow the paint to dry for 30 days before waxing.
Spray Can Essential Tips & Warnings
- Practice is Key: The MOST important instruction is to PRACTICE OFF the vehicle first! Do all steps before applying any paint to your vehicle.
- Nozzle Note: The fan-style nozzle is shipped detached and must be attached to the can stem. Do not use spray nozzles from another spray can! Swapping nozzles can puncture the plunger system.
- Color Match: ALWAYS test the color match BEFORE applying it to your vehicle. Neither the clearcoat nor the primer will fix an off-color match.
- Safety: Use an approved automotive paint respirator and WEAR safety goggles and gloves in a well-ventilated area.
- Compatibility Test: When spraying, always test for paint compatibility on an inconspicuous part of the vehicle to check for any reaction.
- Paint Restrictions: Do not spray our paint over enamel paint or enamel primer.
- Gas Tanks: Require a special catalyzed clearcoat which you can purchase on our site. Our basecoat can be used, but must be followed with the catalyzed clear.
Coverage and Blending
- Coverage: All 12-ounce spray cans cover approximately three to five square feet (with two wet coats). Order an extra can to be safe.
- Blending: Blending the paint into adjacent panels will achieve a much nicer and less noticeable repair, especially for metallic paints.
- Technique: Do not spray heavy coats. Spray in a dust-free area.
Surface Preparation (Rust, Sanding, Adhesion)
- Clean & Protect: Wash the area with soap and water, then use wax and grease remover. Use automotive quality masking tape all around the scratch or chipped area to prevent accidentally marring the surface.
- Rust Removal: If rust is present, remove all traces using 220 grit sandpaper or a wire brush. Apply One Step Rust Converter (spray) (sold on our site) to the bare metal. Apply primer over the area (and over body filler/putty if used). Be careful you do not sand off the rust converter.
- Sanding: Scuff the area you wish to spray with #600 grit sandpaper. If you are spraying a panel such as a door, you must decide how far you are going to paint and scuff the entire area.
- SEM Adhesion Promoter: If spraying a non-metal surface (plastic, rubber, chrome), you MUST use SEM Adhesion Promoter BEFORE the primer. Failure to do so will result in the paint peeling off within a few months! This goes under the primer, basecoat, and clearcoat.
- Primer: APPLY PRIMER to unpainted surfaces (bare metal, plastic, rubber, etc.). Never use enamel primer! Use primer to cover small imperfections and to build up scratched areas. Let the primer dry according to the manufacturers instructions, which can be overnight.
Advanced Techniques & Troubleshooting
Temperature and Humidity Requirements
- Temperature Warning: Ideal temperature is around 70°F. If it is over 80°F, the paint can dry before hitting the vehicle, leaving a very rough surface (spider veins/dry spots).
- Humidity Warning: If the clearcoat dries with a whitish haze or streaks, it's too humid to paint (humidity is over 50%). Wait until conditions improve. Scuff down the clearcoat, apply more color coat and reapply the clear.
Applying Primer
APPLY PRIMER to all unpainted surfaces (bare metal, plastic, rubber, etc.). Never use enamel primer!
For non-metal surfaces, you MUST use SEM Adhesion Promoter first, or the paint will peel off within a few months.
Use primer to cover small imperfections and build up scratched areas. Let the primer dry according to manufacturer's instructions, which can be overnight.
Spraying the Basecoat (Color)
Apply even, wet coats of basecoat with overlapping passes. Two wet coats should be sufficient, but some colors may need more.
Allow each coat to dry 20 minutes before recoating. The basecoat must be dry to the touch before applying clearcoat.
You can wet sand the final basecoat with 1000 grit to remove imperfections if needed.
Spraying Technique Tips
- Watch for Drips: If a drip occurs, do not try to wipe it off. Let it dry, then wet sand the drip away and re-coat the area.
- Metallic Paints: If you apply too much paint or don't wait long enough, the metallic flake will become uneven. Spray the final coat farther away from the surface to let the flakes lay evenly. Practice this off the vehicle first!
- Painting to an Edge: Professional results require painting to a natural boundary (like a door edge or panel line) rather than stopping in the middle of a panel. You would typically spray the clearcoat farther out than the basecoat to a boundary line.
- Lightening/Darkening Paint: Adjusting the spray distance can lighten or darken the paint color. To lighten the paint, hold the can farther away. To darken the paint, hold the can closer.
Spraying the Clearcoat
The basecoat should be dry to the touch before applying the clearcoat. Shake the clearcoat before spraying for two minutes.
Spray the clearcoat beyond the basecoat area, out to a natural stopping point (like a panel edge). Two wet coats should be sufficient.
Do not spray the clearcoat in the sun or on a hot part. Let it cool down first, as otherwise the clearcoat will dry with a dull finish.
Let the clearcoat dry thoroughly (at least overnight, or longer below 70°F). If necessary, wet sand out any imperfections with 1000 grit, then apply a final coat of clear.
Catalyzed (2K) Products Warning
Note! Catalyzed products REQUIRE activation by using the red activator button! These products should generally only be used by experienced professionals due to toxicity and application difficulty.
- Catalyzed Basecoat: Do not apply clearcoat over the catalyzed spray can as it may react with the paint. It needs to dry for at least two days before recoating (wetsand with 1000 grit first).
- Catalyzed Clearcoat (2K Clearcoat): Dries shiny and does not need to be polished. Please follow all safety warnings and the Technical Data Sheet / Instructions.
Using Rubbing Compound (Cutting Creme)
The application of rubbing compound (cutting creme) creates the deep gloss in the clearcoat, so don't skip this step!
- Wait Time: Let the clearcoat dry for at least three days before using the rubbing compound.
- Wrong Compound: Do not use heavy duty rubbing compound (will dull the surface) or polishing compound (is not the same as rubbing compound). Use a medium duty rubbing compound (cutting creme).
- Application: Use a clean, very soft cloth like an old tee shirt (DO NOT USE PAPER PRODUCTS). Place a small quantity on the vehicle and use circular strokes, applying even pressure. Buff with a clean cloth to a high gloss.
- Warning: The rubbing compound can be applied by machine, but it is very easy to burn the finish!
- The rubbing compound (cutting creme) is also good for removing oxidation from your finish.
Troubleshooting Shine Problems
- You may have not applied enough clearcoat. If you polish through the clearcoat, you will end up polishing the basecoat which will not shine! Solution: Apply more clearcoat and compound the area again.
- You are using polishing compound or heavy duty rubbing compound. Solution: Use a medium duty rubbing compound (cutting creme). You may have to apply more clearcoat.
- Compounding by hand is too difficult. Solution: Use a power buffer or hire a detail shop to compound the area.
- You used a paper or dirty cloth. Solution: Use an old clean T-shirt.
- You didn't apply any clearcoat! The basecoat will not shine no matter how much rubbing compound you apply. Solution: Apply clearcoat!
- Whitish haze or white streaks: Caused by high humidity conditions. Solution: Wait until the humidity is under 50%. Scuff down the clearcoat, apply more color coat and reapply the clear.
- Spider veins: Caused by either spraying the paint too far away or the temperature is too hot (above 80°F) and the paint is drying before it hits the surface. Solution: Apply the paint closer to the surface and do not paint when the temperature is above 80°F.
Final Notes
- Waxing: Allow the paint to dry for 30 days before waxing.
- Washing: You can wash your vehicle after the paint is dry.
- Using Your Own Spray Gun: If you are using your own equipment, our pints, quarts and gallons of primer, clearcoat, basecoats and midcoats are all ready to spray and do not need thinner.
Hazards and Safety - VERY IMPORTANT! PLEASE READ!!
Automotive touch-up paint is EXTREMELY hazardous. Keep away from children! Call a physician IMMEDIATELY if swallowed. Keep out of direct sunlight and heat over 120�F. DO NOT STORE IN CAR and avoid freezing. Use with adequate ventilation. Use an approved automotive paint respirator and WEAR safety goggles when handling the primer, paint, and clearcoat.
Frequently Asked Questions
What temperature and humidity conditions are needed for spray painting?
Ideal temperature is around 70°F. Do not spray if temperature exceeds 80°F as paint can dry before hitting the vehicle. Humidity must be below 50% to avoid whitish haze or streaks in the clearcoat. Do not spray in direct sunlight.
How much area does one spray can cover?
All 12-ounce spray cans cover approximately three to five square feet with two wet coats. It's recommended to order an extra can to be safe.
Do I need to practice before spraying my car?
Yes! The most important instruction is to PRACTICE OFF the vehicle first. Do all steps before applying any paint to your vehicle to understand drying times, spray patterns, and technique.
When can I wax after spray painting?
Allow the paint to dry for 30 days before applying automotive wax.
Why isn't my paint shiny after clearcoat?
The clearcoat requires polishing with rubbing compound (cutting creme) to achieve proper shine. Without this step, the paint will not shine properly. Wait at least 3 days after clearcoat application, then use rubbing compound with a clean soft cotton cloth.
What do I do if the clearcoat has a whitish haze?
Whitish haze or white streaks are caused by high humidity (over 50%). Wait until humidity is below 50%, scuff down the clearcoat, apply more color coat and reapply the clear.
Do I need primer for spray painting?
Yes, apply primer to all unpainted surfaces including bare metal, plastic, and rubber. For non-metal surfaces, you MUST use SEM Adhesion Promoter before primer or the paint will peel off within months. Never use enamel primer.
How long should I wait between coats?
Allow each basecoat to dry 20 minutes before recoating. The basecoat must be dry to the touch before applying clearcoat. Let clearcoat dry at least overnight, or longer in temperatures below 70°F.
What happens if I get a drip or run?
Do not try to wipe off a drip. Let it dry completely, then wet sand the drip away with appropriate grit sandpaper and re-coat the area.
Can I use spray nozzles from other cans?
No! Do not use spray nozzles from another spray can. Swapping nozzles can puncture the plunger system and damage the can.
What safety equipment do I need?
Use an approved automotive paint respirator, safety goggles, and gloves. Work in a well-ventilated area. Automotive paint is extremely hazardous and must be kept away from children.
Should I blend the paint into adjacent panels?
Yes, blending the paint into adjacent panels will achieve a much nicer and less noticeable repair, especially for metallic paints. Professional results require painting to a natural boundary like a door edge or panel line.
What causes spider veins or rough texture in the paint?
Spider veins are caused by spraying too far away or temperature being too hot (above 80°F), making the paint dry before it hits the surface. Apply paint closer to the surface and avoid painting when temperature exceeds 80°F.
How do I handle metallic paint colors?
For metallic paints, spray the final coat farther away from the surface to let the metallic flakes lay evenly. If you apply too much paint or don't wait long enough, the flakes will become uneven. Practice this technique off the vehicle first.
Can I adjust the paint color darkness?
Yes, adjusting spray distance can lighten or darken the color. To lighten the paint, hold the can farther away. To darken the paint, hold the can closer to the surface.
Please contact us with any comments you have or any additional tips that worked for you!
