1997 Lund Touch Up Paint (16 OEM Colors)

The 1997 Lund Vibe

Welcome to 1997-the year of Titanic, the Macarena, and you probably spending every spare weekend in a Pro-V or a Tyee. Back then, Lund wasn't just building boats; they were building legends in a spread of colors that made the dock look like a 90s windbreaker catalog. We've got 11 of those survivors in our database today. Whether you were rocking the quintessential Forest Green (the unofficial color of the decade) or something flashier like Red Reef or Cobalt Blue Metallic, you were the king of the walleye circuit. It was a time when a boat could be both a fishing machine and a fashion statement, provided you didn't mind the Sand Beach upholstery.

Paint Health Check

If your '97 is still wearing its original factory skin, we need to talk about "The Peeling Era." This was the peak of basecoat/clearcoat technology, which gave these boats that deep, showroom shine-right up until the clear coat decided it didn't want to be part of the team anymore. If you're seeing white, flaky edges or "clouds" forming on the top rails or the transom, you're looking at **delamination**. Once that clear coat lifts, the base color underneath is as exposed as a nightcrawler on a hot sidewalk. It's a classic case of the clear coat failing its primary job of UV protection, and if you don't catch it early, it'll peel off in sheets faster than a bad sunburn.

Restoration Tip

The golden rule for 1997 aluminum is simple: **Seal those chips immediately before the clear lifts.** Because these are solvent-based finishes, once air and moisture get tucked between the base and the clear at a chip site, they'll start working like a wedge to pry the rest of the finish off. Don't wait for a full restoration to address that nick from the trailer or the dock. Clean the spot, hit it with a touch-up layer, and get a fresh seal on it. It keeps the "creep" at bay and prevents a minor cosmetic fix from turning into a full-blown strip-and-spray job.