1992 Lund Touch Up Paint (12 OEM Colors)

The 1992 Lund Vibe

Welcome to 1992, where the radio is playing grunge and your Lund is the undisputed king of the boat launch. Whether you were outfitting a Tyee, a Baron, or a classic Pro-V, this was the era when Lund wasn't just a boat-it was a status symbol of the north woods. Our database tracks 10 iconic shades for this year, and it's a masterclass in early '90s "Jewel Tones." We're talking about the deep, forest-floor richness of Forest Green and Red Reef, standing tall alongside the timeless Artic White and the rugged Sand Beach. It was a time when metallic finishes like Cobalt Blue Metallic and Graphite Gray started to make these aluminum legends look like they belonged in a showroom, not just a fishing hole.

Paint Health Check

Being a 1992, we are standing square in the middle of "The Peeling Era." In the early '90s, the industry was fully committed to the Basecoat/Clearcoat revolution, but the chemistry hadn't quite figured out how to make that clear layer a permanent partner to the base. On a 1992 Lund, you're looking at thirty-plus years of UV exposure and thermal expansion on aluminum. The most common heartbreak here is delamination-that's when the clear coat decides it's had enough and starts to flake off in sheets, leaving the underlying color exposed and vulnerable. If your Pewter or Medium Red is starting to look like it has a bad sunburn, you're witnessing clear coat failure. Once that seal is broken, moisture gets under the edges and the "lift" spreads like a forest fire.

Restoration Tip

The golden rule for this era: Seal your chips immediately before the clear lifts. On these older clear coat systems, a tiny rock chip is an invitation for the clear to start peeling away from the base. When you're touching up a spot on your 1992 hull, don't just dab the color and call it a day. Use a high-quality solvent-based touch-up to ensure the new paint "bites" into the original layers. If you see the clear coat beginning to cloud or "halo" around a chip, sand the edge of the failing clear back very gently with a fine grit before applying your touch-up. This stops the delamination in its tracks and keeps that Graphite Gray or Black looking factory-fresh instead of flaky.