1990 Jaguar Touch Up Paint (18 OEM Colors)

The 1990 Jaguar Vibe

Welcome to 1990-the year Jaguar was caught between its old-world wood-and-leather soul and a new era of high-tech expectations. Whether you were piloting a late-series XJ40 or the timeless XJS V12, the color palette was pure British aristocrat. We've got 18 specific shades in our database for this year alone, and frankly, Jaguar was showing off. From the deep, brooding Westminster Blue and Jaguar Racing Green to the flashy Regency Red Pearl Metallic, these cars didn't just arrive; they made an entrance. It was an era where a car could be Satin Beige Metallic and still look like it belonged in front of a manor, not a strip mall.

Paint Health Check

If you're looking at an original 1990 Jag today, you're likely staring at the "Peeling Era" in full effect. By 1990, the factory had moved almost entirely to a basecoat-and-clearcoat system. It looked a million bucks on the showroom floor, but the early clear coats from this period were notoriously temperamental when it came to UV exposure. I've seen Solent Blue Metallic hoods that look like they're suffering from a bad sunburn, with the clear coat delaminating in translucent sheets. Once that clear seal breaks, moisture gets under the "skin" and starts attacking the base pigment, turning your Arctic Blue into a chalky, oxidized mess. If you see tiny bubbles or "clouds" under the surface, that's the clear coat losing its grip on the color beneath it.

Restoration Tip

In this era of paint, a "small chip" is never just a small chip-it's an invitation for delamination. Because the clear coat is a separate, brittle layer sitting on top of the color, a rock strike can create a microscopic entry point. My advice? Seal every single chip the moment you spot it. If you let it sit, air and moisture will tunnel between the layers, and before you know it, you'll be peeling off strips of clear coat like old Scotch tape. When you're touching up these metallics, like Silver Frost or Gunmetal Metallic, remember that the clear is your primary defense. Build your color layer just below the surface, then cap it with a high-quality clear to "lock" the edges of the original paint down. It's the only way to stop the peel before it claims the whole fender.