How to Apply Touch Up Paint Using the Brush Cap BottleQuick Steps
*Do not try to brush areas larger than a dime. Larger areas must be sprayed.*
1) Clean the area (soap and water or wax and grease remover)
2) Apply very thin coats of basecoat using the built-in brush.
3) The basecoat should be dry to the touch before applying the clearcoat using the built-in brush. Be careful when applying clearcoat. You need to float it over the basecoat. Clearcoat acts like a solvent and any pressure applied will remove the basecoat. Apply Clearcoat over the basecoat.
4) Allow clearcoat to dry for three days. Use Rubbing Compound (apply with clean soft cotton only, paper products will scratch your finish) to smooth and shine the area. Always test the rubbing compound on your vehicle in an inconspicuous place to check for surface compatibility and shine.
5) If this is your first time, try one small chip from start to finish before repairing other areas.
Make sure the temperature is at least 50°F degrees.
The paint can dry very quickly in warm weather (above 70 degrees). The whole point behind practicing is to see how quickly the basecoat, (midcoat if you are doing a tricoat) and clearcoat will dry. Normally we recommend letting the paint dry overnight at each step, but often you can do all the steps within an hour. Do not practice on your vehicle!
Clean and Protect the Area
Wash the area with soap and water, then use a wax and grease remover or equivalent product (some painters have suggested tar and insect remover, available at the supermarket) before starting the project. You may wish to use masking tape (automotive quality only!) all around the scratch or chipped area to prevent accidentally marring the surface.
The first thing to determine is if the scratch has started to rust. We are talking about a surface scratch and not rust that is bubbling up beneath the paint, as this is too far-gone for touch-up paint! If the area is rusty, you should take a little extra effort to remove all traces of rust using 220 grit sandpaper or a wire brush. Follow this with Mar-Hyde One-Step Rust Converter (sold on our site) and apply this to the bare metal. Just follow the directions on the product.
Applying Primer/Paint or Clearcoat with the Brush Cap Bottle
Dip the brush into the paint and wipe away the excess. Apply several thin coats. For very small areas, you can use the end of a paper matchstick. Do not load up the brush with paint as it will dry quickly into a blob on the vehicle.
If you have an unpainted surface, either bare metal, plastic, rubber, etc., APPLY PRIMER! Primer is made to stick to unpainted surfaces and paint is designed to stick to primer! Primer can also be used to fill small imperfections in the surface. Our primer works on all surfaces. Do NOT use enamel primer!
Clean the area of all dust with a tack rag and apply primer to the unpainted surfaces. Let the primer dry thoroughly before applying the color coat. You can let it dry overnight for best results. If the primer is rough, use the rubbing compound to smooth the surface. If you sand the scratch, the sandpaper will dull the surface so you do not want to do this.
Applying the Basecoat
The Basecoat is the actual color you have ordered. Apply several thin coats of paint to build up the chip to the same depth as the surrounding surface using the built-in brush. Let it dry for ten to twenty minutes between coats. Let the paint dry thoroughly before applying the clearcoat. Usually if you let the paint dry overnight, it will be dry. However, in temperatures less than 70 degrees F, it can take much longer. You may sand the basecoat to remove imperfections by using 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper and wet sand the area smooth using plenty of water. You can also use rubbing compound as it won't dull the surrounding finish.
The basecoat should be dry to the touch before applying the clearcoat. Apply several thin coats of the clearcoat using the built-in brush, drying for ten to twenty minutes between each coat. Be careful when applying clearcoat. You need to float it over the basecoat. Clearcoat acts like a solvent and any pressure applied will remove the basecoat. Usually if you let the clearcoat dry overnight, it will be dry. However, in temperatures less than 70 degrees F, it can take much longer. You may sand the clearcoat to remove imperfections by using 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper and wet sand the area smooth using plenty of water. You can also use rubbing compound as it won't dull the surrounding finish. Let the area dry for at least three days and use a good quality automotive rubbing compound to polish the area. Make sure you use a clean soft cotton fabric such as a T-Shirt. Wait 30 days before applying automotive wax. Don't use a bath towel, wash cloth, etc.
Please note: The paint will darken when you apply the clearcoat. If this is an issue, the only solution would be to spray the paint as then you can have some control of how light and dark the paint and clearcoat go on.
Using the Rubbing Compound
Rubbing compound is applied to the entire area to make the area smooth and shiny. Let the clearcoat dry for at least three days before using the rubbing compound. Use a clean, very soft cloth like an old tee shirt (for example DO NOT USE PAPER PRODUCTS as the wood fibers will scratch the finish!). Place a small quantity of rubbing compound on the vehicle and use circular strokes and apply even pressure to the surface. It's almost like waxing a vehicle except the rubbing compound is like an extremely fine liquid sandpaper. Buff with a clean cloth to a high gloss. (You may want to apply some paint and clearcoat on a smooth surface and practice to get the feel of it.) Sometimes lots of pressure is required to make the clearcoat shine. The rubbing compound can also be applied by machine, but careful, it's very easy to burn the finish! You can get the same results by hand, it will just take a bit longer.
The rubbing compound is also good for removing oxidation from your finish. Let the finish dry for a 30 days and apply a good quality automotive wax.
Sometimes, especially on dark colored paints, the repaired area will look hazy and/or scratched and not match the surrounding paint. If you experience this. you have two options. Purchase some automotive polishing compound locally and use this until the shine matches your original paint. You can also go to a local detail shop and have them power polish the area.
This problem can be caused by using too much pressure on the rubbing compound. The rubbing compound is equivalent to using 1500 grit sandpaper and with enough pressure, it will scratch the original paint.
This is why we recommend going through ALL the steps before applying to your vehicle. Or practice on an inconspicuous area of your vehicle.
Allow the finish to dry for 30 days before waxing.
Please contact us with any comments you have or any additional tips that worked for you!